I know what you're thinking, "conquered"? So far it's not sounding like I conquered a damned thing. Well, I did and I'll get to that but in the meantime, does this really look like the face of a sex symbol? A roarer, a rogerer, a gorger, and a puker? He was you know even if I just quoted Prince George. Maybe not a gorger and a puker although there is some evidence that he was perhaps epileptic but mostly there's a lot of evidence, rumor, and innuendo that he slept with a lot of people. He just doesn't do it for me. Certainly not in the way that Harold Godwinson's mustaches do it for me. Moving on....
Day 4 starts as usual on the roof top with caffeine and much sun. It is already "scorchio!" out there. Just click on the link if you've never seen it.
Departing from the Hotel Mercure, we head to Rome's esteemed Metro system. It's not very extensive but they say that's because of all the Roman ruins underground. This may very well be the case but after riding it twice, both times packed to the gills, I can say a few more cars would be nice. This morning's car has a manual A/C system. This means that when the train is moving, there is air coming in from the outside. Air that is generated by the movement of the train through the tunnels so it's not so fresh but it's still better than the no air when the train is not moving. Luckily we only have to ride it two stops to Pyramide station (there is a strange pyramid nearby that I saw in books and on the cab ride in but that is not visible from the station) where we change to the Lido train. We have a rather pleasant ride out to the countryside on a spacious train that contains very few seats. About 5 minutes into the ride, a couple of nonnas board and there is no seat so I give them mine. They seem a bit shocked and say "grazie". Standing is much better anyway as I am now window level and can actually enjoy the breeze.
Ostia Antica, the old port of Rome, is about a 5 minute walk from the train station itself. Along the way we stop at a shop and buy water. Three bottles cost three Euros out here - not the six or seven in Rome so we make a note to buy more before we leave. We also pass a cute little restaurant where we plan to have lunch. We decide to just use Nancy's Rick Steve's guide to get us through the small town and enter. Although it's hot there is a nice breeze and there is very little traffic noise. It is such a pleasure to be out of the city and also such a pleasure to walk around the ruins. Unlike the Forum and other sites in Rome, you can pretty much walk through Ostia unless there are mosaics, frescoes, or a current dig. Rather than bore you with a detailed account, I'll just post the pictures with some descriptions.
As you walk up to the town proper, you are in the old necropolis. Romans buried their relatives outside the city walls and as such there are a lot of fragments of sarcophagi. Upon entering, you pass the warehouses and then the fabulous Baths of Neptune.
From the Baths, we walked to the Theater. It is in fantastic shape and they still use it for concerts and performances.
The square of the guilds is where business was transacted and each business stall contains mosaics that describe the goods provided or services rendered. Since we could not read Latin, I have no clue what most of them did but I am pretty sure these guys trafficked in elephants.
In the center of the square, is the remains of a temple. At the time there was a group of French tourists squatting on the steps. They were making hissing noises at the most handsome and friendly little cat so John and I walked up, sat down, and called the young man over. He was a sweetheart. He allowed us to pet him, scratch his chin, and generally adore him and then he was off to find new non-French blood. (That's a French person behind him.)
After the square, we wandered through the mill and various side streets and then came upon the fabulous tavern. The condition is amazing and you can walk all around, even behind the bar. While John was behind the bar, a couple of German ladies walked by and ordered beer. The fresco displays some of the goods for sale.
At this point, we needed refreshment so we walked to the cafeteria where we bought water, beer and Italian cheesy poofs (I think they were called Puffi. They were in a can and they were salty and delicious). Rehydrated and resalinated (I know, not a word!) we wandered around for a little while longer and then headed to the little restaurant for lunch on the Via de Romagnoli, Allo Sbarco di Enea.
This is a picture of the little flyer they give you with your bill. It's priceless and I shall save it always. Sadly, the little sandal wearer was not our waiter (We had a nice female server in tunic, belt, and sandals who, upon looking at my Visa card said, "DeAngelis! That is an Italian name." I couldn't tell if she was excited because I was Italian or shocked that I wasn't able to speak Italian very well.) We sat on the patio that was strewn with faux Roman statuary and covered by grapevines and an awning. The food was delicious. Nancy and I had the Melanzane themed special (grilled eggplant, zucchini, peppers, cheese, salami & prosciutto, melon, and then melanzane alla parmigiana) while John had the spaghetti bolognese special. Sadly for him and happily for me, he was too full to eat his saltimbocca so Nancy and I (read: mostly "I") helped with that. They also served this with french fries. I am not sure if this is because we ordered "Tourist Specials" and they think that Americans eat french fries with every meal or what but they were awesome french fries.
After lunch we headed back to the train and rode back with an overworked Italian IT guy who kept falling asleep. When the train slowed, he'd lurch awake and lurch out of his seat at anyone sitting opposite. He'd then ask the stop, we'd tell him, and then he'd go back to sleep. He was still on the train sleeping when we returned. It was the last stop so we just figured he'd ride it back towards Lido and get off at some point. If not, at least he was getting some rest.
The Metro was just as crowded going back although the train was newer and had real A/C. Back at the hotel we rested, wrestled with our imperial elevators, consumed more alcohol on the roof, and went for pizza around the corner. I actually had foccace with speck (an uncured sort of bacon because I just hadn't had enough pig) and it was juicy and fatty and delicious.
And that's about it. Early the next morning a surly taxi driver took us to the airport where I waited in a long line to get through passport control, a long line to check in and check my bags, and a long line to get through security. In the security line I was behind an Italian family who had apparently never flown before as they had to take just about everything off to get through the metal detectors and then walked away and left all their carry on luggage on the belt of the x-ray machine! I felt like I was in a Roberto Benigni film. I arrived at the gate as we were boarding.
So I came, I saw, and I actually conquered my fear of being in a city filled with Italians. I really do wish they'd talk less and a little more slowly and at a lower volume but then it's their nature. It's kind of like my mom saying she's not screaming when she's screaming. Italians go to 11 and most of the time they are on 11. Do I like Rome? No, not really. I described it as being like NYC on cocaine. Unlike London, there is simply no place that is quiet unless you are in a church and then all the pilgrims take the fun out of it. I wish I could time travel and see it in it's heyday because the Roman parts of Rome are spectacular and it's quite moving to walk among the ruins. For the most part the architecture is Italian Renaissance and Baroque overload (gods above and demons below but I hate the palazzo style!). I need more of the medieval to keep me happy. I will visit again but I think only as a day trip or an overnight from Florence or Sienna or Venice but not for a while. Amsterdam anyone?
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